Operation of 2400/2700 Series Pneumatic Screwdrivers
Tools Required for Repairing 2400/2700 Series Pneumatic Screwdrivers
Lubrication for 2400/2700 Series Pneumatic Screwdrivers
Lubrication Instructions for Repair and Maintenance
Troubleshooting Guide
Disassembly
Disassembly of 2700 Right Angle Drive
Assembly - Motor and Gear Assy
Assembly
Assembly of 2700 Series Right Angle Drive

The following guidelines are provide to insure safe operation of Standard Pneumatics' 2400/2700 Series Pneumatic Screwdrivers.

• Always operate, inspect, and maintain any tool in accordance with American National Standards Institute Safety Code for Portable Air Tools (ANSI B1869.1)
  
  

• For safety, top performance and maximum durability of parts, operate these tools at 90 psig (6.2bar/620kPa) maximum air pressure at the inlet with 1/4" (6mm) ID air Hose.
  
  

• Always turn off and disconnect the air supply before installing removing, or adjusting any accessory on this tool, or before performing any maintenance or repair.
  
  

• Keep hands, loose clothing, and long hair away from the rotating end of the tool.
  
  

• Anticipate and be alert for sudden changes in motion during the start up and operation of any power tool.
  
  

• Standard Pneumatic is not responsible for damage caused by any customer modifications of tools.
  
  

• Do not disassemble if the tool is still in the warranty period. Disassembly by anyone who is not any authorized Standard Pneumatic service technician will void the warranty.
  
  

• Always use clean, dry air. Dust, Corrosive Fumes, or excessive moisture can damage the motor of an air tool. An air line filter and lubricator are required.
  
  

• Low or fluctuating air pressure causes variations in tool and can result in inaccurate torque values.
  
  

• 11/16" & 3/4" open end wrench
  
  

• Crescent (adjustable Jaws) wrench; 8 inch or larger
  
  

• Strap wrench
  
  

• Retaining ring pliers
  
  

• Small Hammer
  
  

• Punch (p3 or similar)
  
  

• 1" Micrometer
  
  

• Small arbor press
  
  

• Pencil with eraser or 1/4" plastic rod (6"long)
  
  

• Flat plate (Glass or other)
  
  

• Emery cloth
  
  

• Tachometer
  
  

• Container (at least 6" diameter with low walls)
  
  

The best tool performance will be achieved when using an in-line lubricator regulated to deliver 1 drop of oil every minute while the tool is continuously running. When using other brands of lubricators, it is recommended that the oiler operate at a 3.2 cfm flow rate.

It is not possible to control the amount of lubricant going to each tool when multiple tools on one air system are using one lubricator. Since it is highly unlikely that the same number of tools would always be operating at the same time, the airflow through the lubricator would not be a constant rate, thus the amount of lubricant put into each tool would vary. Standard Pneumatic recommends that when connecting multiple tools on one air line, each tool should be connected directly to its own lubricator.

In certain low load or infrequent usage applications it may be possible to operate the tool by manually adding oil on a periodic basis. Inject approximately 2 to 3 drops of tool lubricant to the air intake at the top of tool.

1. Use Standard Pneumatic Tool Lubricant (Part Number 100) or a S.A.E. no. 10 wt
     non-detergent oil for lubricating the motor.

2. Generously lubricate rotor and rotor blades prior to reassembly of the motor.

3. The spindle gear assemblies (items 35, 37, & 38) should have a good amount of grease applied to the teeth and pins.

4. Apply a light amount grease to spindle (Item #40) just above the notches.

Note: Whenever a 2400 and 2700 series tool is to be placed in a vise, use leather or copper covered vise jaws to protect the surface of the part or tool and help prevent distortion. This is especially true of motor housings and threaded portions of the housing. Distortion of the motor housing could result in irreparable damage.

(Numbers in parentheses refer to number parts in parts drawing)

1. Grasp the tool and remove the clutch housing (63) by turning the housing clockwise, if the clutch housing will not unscrew by hand, then grasp the tool in a padded jaw vise and use a strap wrench to loosen the housing.

2. Remove the clutch by grasping it tightly and pulling straight out vigorously. The clutch should be pulled in a snap out method.

3. Place the spindle housing (44) end into a vise clamping on two of the flats. Remove the bail (1), then using an 11/16 open end or adjustable wrench on the flats of the head (12) remove by turning clockwise. The spindle housing (44) can be removed from the motor housing (43) by turning clockwise. Note: the head assembly and spindle housing should be loosened but not removed until the tool is placed over a shallow container. The alignment pin will fall loose when the spindle gear and bearing are removed from the rotor.

4. Remove the motor assembly (23 through 33) from the gear train assembly. Disassemble motor by removing the cover plate (23), bearing ring (24), bearing (25), upper end plate (26), and the alignment pin (27) from the cylinder (28). Remove the cylinder from the rotor/spindle gear (29/33), then the five rotor blades (30). The alignment pin will drop when the spindle gear is removed from the rotor.

5. Remove the ring gears (34) and idler gears (35) from the idler gear plates (37). Inspect all ring gears, idler gears, and spindle gears (38) for burrs, chips and excessive wear. After cleaning the idler gears, place them on the pins of the idler gear plate assemblies, rotate each gear making sure they turn smoothly.

6. Check bearings (25, 36) for excessive side play and smooth rotation. Check that the press fit of the bearing (25) and spindle (33) is still solid. If any of the bearings (36) require replacement, use a small arbor press to separate the bearing from the gear plate assembly (37) and short spindle gear (38). Take special care not to loose the groove pin (39).

7. The head assembly can be disassembled by using retaining ring pliers to remove the retaining ring (8), then remove the muffler cap (9) and felt muffler (10). If the felt muffler is greatly discolored or soiled replace with new one. Visually inspect the strainer (3) for any debris.

8. If it is found that the reverse button does not function or the button does not move freely the tool should be sent back to Standard Pneumatic and Electric Tool Co. for evaluation and repair.

9. The clutch assembly can be disassembled using a 1/16 allen wrench to remove the cap screw (53) located in one of the slots in the sleeve nut (44). Grasp the clutch in one hand and with the other hand turn the cam (54) counter clockwise to remove. After removing the cam, set the spindle (51), and sleeve nut (45) which contains the spring and steel balls on a flat surface. Remove the bit sleeve from the spindle, then the spring (46) can be removed. Remove the o-ring (47) from the spindle shaft using a slim pointed rod, then remove the ball races (48), ball retainer (49) and 8 chrome steel balls (50). Inspect all the clutch components for excessive wear or damage.

10. Clean all parts thoroughly, using cleaning solvent, acetone, or an ultrasonic cleaner/specified soap.

1. To disassemble the 2700 right angle drive grasp tool firmly with one hand then the clutch housing/angle drive clockwise (left hand thread). If the clutch housing/angle drive does not unscrew by hand, then grasp the tool in a padded jaw vise and use a strap wrench to loosen the housing.

2. Place the angle head (74) in padded jaw vise and place a crescent (adjustable jaw) wrench on the two flats located on the clutch housing (63). Turn the clutch housing counter clockwise to remove, then grasp the input shaft (69) and remove from angle head assembly. There maybe one or two shims that are located on the shaft right in front of the bearing (71), they are there to properly align the clutch housing with the angle head assembly.

3. Check bearing (71) for excessive side play and smooth rotation. Inspect the gears (73, 75) for burrs, chips, excessive wear, cracks or broken teeth. If the driven gear requires replacement, using a spanner wrench unscrew bearing retainer (77) counter clockwise. Using a 1/16 punch, tap out the roll pin (72) located in the shoulder of gear (75). The gear (73) on the input shaft can be removed by pressing shaft away from gear. The key (70) is located in a groove on the end of the output shaft and special care should be taken so that the key is not lost when pressing off the gear.

4. Inspect the end of the spindle assembly (76) for wear and also check the brass bushing located in the angle head (74).

5. Clean all parts thoroughly, using cleaning solvent, acetone, or an ultrasonic cleaner/specified soap.

1. Place idler gears (35) onto the pins located on the idler plate assembly (37) with short spindle gear (38) or output shaft (40) and bearing (36) attached. Insert the assembled gearing into the ring gear (34) making sure the bearing is placed in the recess or the ring gear.

2. Assemble the individual gear trains together, placing them in a v-block or partially closed vise and turn the spindle (40) to insure gears rotate freely. NOTE: The jaws of the vise should be open enough to just cradle the gear trains.

3. Hold the spindle gear (33) with bearing (25), bearing ring (32) and lower end plate (31), (Note: the end plate side with recess faces bearing), so that the pin groove is visible. Place alignment pin (22) in the groove on the spindle gear, then slide the rotor of over shaft and pin.

4. Lightly wipe each rotor blade (30) with recommended pneumatic oil then insert blades into the slots of rotor (29) with the 30 degree angles facing the center of the rotor. If blades do not stay in rotor then place the cylinder over the rotor prior to installing blades.

5. Place the cylinder (28) over the rotor (29) with the alignment pin hole facing up away from the spindle gear (33). Insert the alignment pin (27) in the hole provided in the cylinder. Place the upper end plate (26), with the recess facing upwards, bearing (25), bearing ring (24) with notch facing end plate, and cover plate (23) onto the shaft of the rotor, aligning each so the pin is in the small hole located between the two larger holes.

6. Place the motor and gear train together, then slide the entire assembly into the motor housing as shown on the parts drawing. Install the spindle housing assembly (44) into the end of the motor housing (43) that is furthest from label, turn counter clockwise until tight.

7. Place a pencil on the spindle (40), then slide the motor and gear train back out of the motor housing until the alignment pin is exposed. Place the head assembly onto the motor housing, oriented so that the pin will be inserted in the small hole that is between the double drilled holes located in the threaded end of the head. Tighten head by turning it counter clockwise until snug.

8. Attach air hose to the tool, then secure the tool in a vise, clamping on the flats located on the spindle housing. Using a 11/16 open end wrench, tighten the head assembly while at the same time, actuate the tool by pushing the lever. Tighten the head assembly until the highest rpm is achieved. Verify the rpm by using a tachometer.

9. If required, loosen the head assembly then tighten following the instruction listed in step 8 until the optimal free speed is achieved. Ideally, the rpm should be as shown below:

1. Insert driver (57) into cam (54) and push until fully together.

2. Place spindle (51) up on end with the holes facing down. Spread recommended grease over the holes located on the end of the spindle then insert eight 3/32 chrome balls (52) into the holes. The grease will aid in keeping the balls in each hole until fully assembled.

3. Place ball race (48) onto shaft of spindle followed by ball retainer (49). Coat retainer and ball race with recommended grease then insert chrome steel balls (50) into each hole in the retainer. Slide second ball race over shaft, install o-ring (47) into the groove located on the shaft just above where the second ball race is resting.

4. Slide clutch spring (46) over shaft until it contacts second ball race. Place sleeve nut (45) over shaft of spindle, then carefully lift the spindle with sleeve nut and other components. While holding the spindle, insert driver and cam into the opening of the sleeve nut, turn driver/cam clockwise to tighten. Tighten until desired torque is reached. Line up slot in sleeve nut with threaded hole in cam, insert cap screw and tighten.

NOTE: When attaching clutch to the power unit a snap-in method will be required. Insert spindle of clutch into output drive of power unit, when clutch bottoms out apply pressure and rotate clockwise. The tangs in the output spindle will snap into place resting on the flats of the clutch spindle.

1. If bearings are replaced then slide new bearing (71) and driven gear (75) onto spindle spindle assembly (76). Line up the hole in the driven gear with the hole in the spindle assembly. Press roll pin (72) into hole to secure the driven gear. For replacing new bearing on input shaft first slide the bearing onto shaft (69), place key (70) in the groove located on end of shaft. Press driving gear (73) onto shaft end until fully seated.

2. Insert spindle assembly with bearing and gear attached into angle head (70), insuring the end of spindle is fully placed into brass bushing located inside of angle head. Tighten bearing retainer (77) into angle head by turning it clockwise with spanner wrench.

3. Insert input shaft (69) with bearing and gear attached into other side of angle head. It is important to make sure the gears mesh properly by turning the input shaft when and insuring spindle/driven gear rotates freely.

4. If shims were present, replace them onto shaft making sure that they are flush against bearing prior to installing clutch housing (63). Turn clutch housing clutch housing clockwise (left hand threads) until tight using a wrench placed on flats of housing.