Operation of 8600 Series Pneumatic Screwdrivers
Tools Required for Repairing 8600 Series Pneumatic Screwdrivers
Lubrication for 8600 Series Pneumatic Screwdrivers
Lubrication Instructions for Repair and Maintenance
Troubleshooting Guide
Disassembly
Assembly of reverse valve and head
Assembly of the gear train
Assembly of motor

The following guidelines are provided to insure safe operation of Standard Pneumatic's 8600 Series Screwdrivers.

• Always operate, inspect, and maintain any tool in accordance with American National Standards Institute Safety Code for Portable Air Tools (ANSI B1869.1)
  

• For safety, top performance, and maximum durability of parts, operate these tools at 90 psig (6.2bar/620kPa) maximum air pressure at the inlet with 1/4" (6mm) ID air hose.
  

• Always turn off and disconnect the air supply before installing, removing, or adjusting any accessory on this tool, or before performing any maintenance or repair.
  

• Keep hands, loose clothing, and long hair away from the rotating end of the tool.
  

• Anticipate and be alert for sudden changes in motion during start up and operation of any power tool.
  

• Standard Pneumatic is not responsible for damage caused by any customer modifications of tools.
  

• Do not disassemble if the tool is still in the warranty period. Disassembly by anyone who is not an authorized Standard Pneumatic service technician will void the warranty.
  

• Always use clean, dry air. Dust, Corrosive fumes, or excessive moisture can damage the motor of an air tool. An air line filter and lubricator are required.
  

• Low or fluctuating air pressure causes variations in tool speed and can result in inaccurate torque values.

• Crescent Wrench - jaw opening to 1 1/8"
  

• Vise - bench model or portable
  

• Retaining ring pliers - internal & external
  

• Open end wrenches -1 1/8 jaw opening
  

• Small Hammer & Strap wrench
  

• Punch (p3 or similar)
  

• 1" Micrometer
  

• Arbor press (small)
  

• Flat plate (glass or other)
  

• Emery cloth
  

• Tachometer
  

• Container (at least 6" wide with low walls)

The ideal air supply to our tools can be achieved with our model 280 Filter-Regulator-Lubricator. The filter element removes contaminating solids, oils and liquids which may be in the compressed air line whether newly installed or not. This filter unit is equipped with a petcock for "dumping" the contaminants without shutting off the air supply.

The regulator controls the air supply to maintain a constant pressure at the tool even though there are changes in the flow demand and or inlet pressure.

When other manufactures of lubricators are used, it is recommended that the customer check with that particular manufacturer for the proper procedure for setting the lubricator to deliver 1/10 of a drop per minute to the tool. Many lubricators, especially larger units, require high airflow rates for the lubricator to operate properly. Therefore, the manufacturer should also be asked to verify the operation of the lubricator at a 10 cfm flow rate for the 8000 series.

Multiple tools on one air system present another problem. When several tools are connected to the same lubricator, it is not possible for the correct amount of lubrication to go to each tool. Since it is highly unlikely that the same number of tools would also be in operation at the same time, the airflow through the lubricator would be a variable; thus the amount of lubrication put into the airflow would also vary. However, with the micro fog type of lubricator, such as our model 280, the oil particle size is such that the oil stays suspended in the air through several "takeoffs" better than with other types of lubricators without wetting out. This results in multiple tools on the same line being better lubricated.

The position of the various tools in the system in relation to the distance away from the lubricator would also cause a variance in the amount of lubrication to each tool. If several tools must be connected to the same lubricator, the same procedure for setting the amount of lubrication on the unit should be used with only one of the tools running. It is assumed that the increased airflow of several tool operating at the same time will pull more oil into the system. The maximum number of tools that we recommend connected to one model 280 is two.

1. Use Standard Pneumatic Tool lubricant (Part Number 100) or a S.A.E. 10 wt
non-detergent oil for lubricating the motor.

2. Generously lubricate rotor and rotor blades prior to reassembly of the motor.

3. Lightly coat all idler gears, idler gear pins and pinion gears with Darina AX multifuse grease or equivalent.

NOTE: Whenever a 8600 series tool is to be placed in a vise, use leather or copper covered vise jaws to protect the surface of the part or tool and help prevent distortion. This is especially true of motor housings and threaded portions of the housing. Distortion of the motor housing could result in irreparable damage. (Numbers in parentheses refer to numbered parts in parts drawing)

1. Grasp the tool and remove the clutch housing (1) by turning the housing clockwise (left hand threads). If the clutch housing will not unscrew by hand, then carefully clamp the tool in a padded jaw vise and use a strap wrench to loosen the housing.

2. Remove the clutch from the motor housing assembly, taking special care not to bend the push rod (14).

3. Place the clutch end of the tool into a vise, clamping onto the flats of internal gear the bail(2) by expanding the sides apart. Then place an open end wrench 1 1/8" or crescent (adjustable jaw) wrench on the flats of the valve housing(21), turn clockwise to loosen. Remove the tool from the vise and continue turning the internal gear(47) until it separates from the motor housing (35). Carefully tilt the head/motor housing downward causing the gear train and motor to slide out. NOTE: Place the motor and gear assemblies in a shallow container and clean all parts with solvent or alcohol after they have been disassembled.

4. Using an internal retaining ring pliers, remove item (50) from item (47), place a pencil or small rod in the opposite end of the internal gear (47) then push the output spindle (46) and bearing(48) to remove from the motor housing. Check the bearing for wear and smooth rotation. If bearing replacement is necessary remove item (49) from output spindle (46) using an external retaining ring pliers then press the output spindle away from the bearing (48).

5. Grasp the splined end of the rotor (29) firmly, unscrew the lock nut (25) by turning counter- clockwise. Remove the bearing (26), rear plate (27), cylinder (30), vanes (28) from rotor. Then using a snap ring pliers remove retaining ring (34) from splined end of rotor. Slide bearing (33), wave washer (32) and front plate (31) from rotor.

6. Check bearings for excessive side play and smooth rotation. Inspect the front and back plates (27,31) along with the rotor (29) for any scoring or excessive wear. Inspect all idler and pinion gears (38,40,41,43,45) for burrs, chips and excessive wear. Place idler gears on the pins of the gear plate and output spindle assemblies, rotating each one making sure it turns smoothly.

7. If front or rear plate (27,31) are slightly scored they can be refurbished by placing emery cloth on a flat surface then lightly sliding them across ways until a good finish has been achieved. Always make sure that each item is flat against the emery cloth. Note: this only should be performed if the front and rear plates are slightly scored.

8. To disassemble the head, place air inlet end in vise clamping onto the flats of bushing. Using a crescent (adjustable jaw) wrench on the flats of the valve housing (21), turn counter-clockwise to loosen. Remove inlet bushing (3) from valve housing, an o-ring (6) and top fine mesh muffler (5) will be loosely attached. The sleeve (9), coarse mesh muffler (8) and o-ring (7) can be remove by grasping the sleeve and pulling it away from the head. If the mufflers are dirty, clean them in a suitable cleaning solution. If the muffler elements still appear dirty after cleaning, replace with new ones.

9. Using internal retaining ring pliers or small screwdriver, turn the retaining ring (10) and screen (11) located in the air inlet of valve housing (21) sideways to remove. The valve spring (12) and valve ball (13) can be removed by tilting the valve housing downward. Remove push rod (14), inspect for straightness and replace if bent.

10. To remove the reverse valve place a .050" allen key into the larger hole of the valve bushing (20), making sure it is properly seated into set screw (18). Turn allen key counter clockwise until it is flush with the bottom of the access hole, still allowing the valve to rotate. Then take a thin rod or small paper clip, insert into the small hole which is directly opposite of the access hole for set screw. Push the ball back into the recess hole in the valve, remove rod or paper clip and pull valve (16) out from bushing (20). Rotation of the valve or further adjustment of set screw may be required when removing the valve. Clean the I.D. of bushing using a Q-tip and solvent or alcohol.

11. Clean all parts thoroughly, using cleaning solvent, acetone, or an ultrasonic cleaner with specified soap.

1. While holding the valve (16) rotate it until the L shape groove is facing you. With tweezers place the steel ball into the shallow hole in the L groove. Insert valve spring (19) in valve bushing (20), the rotate valve housing (21) so the valve bushing is pointing to the right. Insert valve with ball into the valve bushing. The valve bushing should be to your right which will place the larger access hole on the back side, and the small hole facing you. By using your finger the valve can be held in place and if necessary slightly rotated until set screw is center in the larger access hole, insert the .050" hex key wrench into set screw, then turn clockwise until resistance is felt.
NOTE: Assemble reverse valve prior to placing the push rod in the valve housing (21).

2. Insert push rod (14) as pictured in breakdown into head/valve housing (21), place the head- valve housing in an upward position with the push rod hanging down. Place valve ball (13) in the inlet opening, then the valve spring (12) with the small end first which rests on the top of the valve ball, followed by the strainer (11) and retaining ring (10).

Assembly of the gear train

3. If the bearing (48) on the output spindle (46) required replacement then press the new bearing onto the output spindle until it bottoms on shoulder, then using an external snap ring pliers secure the ring (49) into the groove on spindle. Set the internal gear housing (47) with the larger external threads facing upward. Insert the output spindle with bearing into the internal gear housing, install retaining ring (50) in the internal groove of housing making sure the star washer (44) is secured in the I.D. of the spindle.

4. Apply a light coat of recommend grease to the pinion, idler gear pins and idler gears. Press the pinion gear into the gear plate assembly (39), then place the idlers gears (38,41,43) on the pins of the gear plate assembly and output shaft (46). Install the idler/pinion gears & plate assembly into the internal gear housing (47) with the pinion gear end first. Move the gear assembly back and forth slightly so gears will properly mesh. Note: Check the parts list for additional items depending on which model of tool is being repaired. Each RPM is listed separately showing which parts are to be used.

Assembly of motor

5. Assemble the motor by first placing the front plate (31) over the toothed shaft of rotor (29) followed by the wave washer (32) then the bearing (33). Install the retaining ring in the groove located on the shaft.

6. Note that the cylinder (30) has a U-shape notch on rim and a center hole between the two connecting holes/ports on one end. Place the cylinder, with the U-shaped notch end up, down over the rotor and against the front plate (31).

7. Wipe each rotor blade (28) with a light film of oil and place a blade in each slot of rotor, with the curved side facing to the center. Place the front plate (28), recess up onto the rotor shaft and against the cylinder, aligning the U-shaped notch in the rim of the cylinder to the half circle notch of the rear plate. Insert the alignment pin (23) through the smaller hole between the two port holes of the rear plate into dowel pin hole in cylinder.

8. Install the bearing (26) in the recess of the rear plate followed by the lock nut (25) which is placed on the threads of the rotor shaft, then hand tighten (the lock nut may turn only a 1/2 to 1 revolution). Assemble the motor to the internal gear housing containing the output shaft and idler gear assemblies. Place in a V-block and adjust lock nut on rotor. To hold the motor from turn so the lock nut can be adjusted, insert a 1/4" hex wrench into the output shaft, hold firmly with hand. Tighten the lock nut until a continuous drag is present, then loosen until the motor will rotate freely. Remove motor from gear train assembly and then turn the rotor by hand. It should rotate with out any evidence of tightness or dragging.

9. Holding the gear train vertically with the motor in place, turn the housing (35) so the recess with label is pointing up, then slide it over the motor and gear train until contact has been made with the threads on the internal gear housing. Turn the housing counter clock wise until snug. Install the Head assembly, sliding the attached pushrod through the hole in the rotor. Align the dowel pin that protrudes out of the motor with small hole between the two port holes located in the head. If the dowel pin is not correctly aligned with the corresponding hole in the head assembly the tool will not operate or will only work in one direction. Using a Crowfoot torque wrench tighten to 200 In-Lbs.

10. 10. Install the clutch and clutch housing, then attach tool to air line and check the free speed (RPM) with a digital tachometer. Ideally, the RPM should be as shown below:

11. The tool should be run for at least 5 minutes in each direction, then re-checked for free required torque output.