Table of Contents

Operation of 2600 Series Pneumatic Screwdrivers
Tools Required for Repairing 2600 Series Pneumatic Screwdrivers
Lubrication for 2600 Series Pneumatic Screwdrivers
Lubrication Instructions for Repair and Maintenance
Troubleshooting Guide

Operation of 2600 Series Pneumatic Screwdrivers

The following guidelines are provided to insure safe operation of Standard Pneumatic's 2600 Series Pneumatic Screwdrivers.

  • Always operate, inspect, and maintain any tool in accordance with American National Standards Institute Safety Code for Portable Air Tools (ANSI B1869.1)

  • For safety, top performance, and maximum durability of parts, operate these tools at 90 psig (6.2bar/620kPa) maximum air pressure at the inlet with 1/4" (6mm) ID air hose.

  • Always turn off and disconnect the air supply before installing, removing, or adjusting any accessory on this tool, or before performing any maintenance or repair.

  • Keep hands, loose clothing, and long hair away from the rotating end of the tool.

  • Anticipate and be alert for sudden changes in motion during start up and operation of any power tool.

  • Standard Pneumatic is not responsible for damage caused by any customer modifications of tools.

  • Always use clean, dry air. Dust, Corrosive fumes, or excessive moisture can damage the motor of an air tool. An air line filter and lubricator are required.

  • Do not disassemble if the tool is still in the warranty period. Disassembly by anyone who is not an authorized Standard Pneumatic service technician will void the warranty.

  • Low or fluctuating air pressure causes variations in tool speed and can result in inaccurate torque values.

Tools Required for Repairing 2600 Series Pneumatic Screwdrivers
  • 11/16" open end wrench

  • Strap wrench

  • Retaining ring pliers

  • Small Hammer

  • Punch (p3 or similar)

  • 1" Micrometer

  • Small arbor press

  • Pencil with eraser, or plastic rod (6" long)

  • Flat plate (glass or other)

  • Emery cloth

  • Tachometer

  • Container (at least 6" wide with low walls)

Lubrication for 2600 Series Pneumatic Screwdrivers

The ideal air supply to our tools can be achieved with our model 280 Filter-Regulator-Lubricator. The filter element removes contaminating solids, oils and liquids which may be in the compressed air line whether newly installed or not. This filter unit is equipped with a petcock for ŇdumpingÓ the contaminants without shutting off the air supply.

The regulator controls the air supply to maintain a constant pressure at the tool even though there are changes in the flow demand and or inlet pressure.

When other manufactures of lubricators are used, it is recommended that the customer check with that particular manufacturer for the proper procedure for setting the lubricator to deliver 1/10 of a drop per minute to the tool. Many lubricators, especially larger units, require high airflow rates for the lubricator to operate properly. Therefore, the manufacture should also be asked to verify the operation of the lubricator at a 3.6 cfm flow rate for the 2000 series.

Multiple tools on one air system present another problem. When several tools are connected to the same lubricator, it is not possible for the correct amount of lubrication to go to each tool. Since it is highly unlikely that the same number of tools would also be in operation at the same time, the airflow through the lubricator would be a variable; thus the amount of lubrication put into the airflow would also vary, however, with the micro fog type of lubricator, such as our model 280, the oil particle size is such that the oil stays suspended in the air through several takeoffs better than with other types of lubricators without wetting out, which results in multiple tools on the same line being better lubricated.

The position of the various tools in the system in relation to the distance away from the lubricator would also cause a variance in the amount of lubrication to each tool. If several tools must be connected to the same lubricator, the same procedure for setting the amount of the lubrication on the unit should be used with only one of the tools running. It is assumed that the increased airflow of tools operating at the same time will pull more oil into the system. The maximum number of tools that we recommend to one Model 280 is two.

Lubrication Instructions for Repair and Maintenance

1. Use Standard Pneumatic Tool lubricant (Part Number 100) or a S.A.E. 10 wt
non-detergent oil for lubricating the motor.

2. Generously lubricate rotor and rotor blades prior to reassembly of the motor.

3.The spindle (item 23) should be lightly greased on the gear teeth.

4.Coat all idler gears with Dana AX Multifuse grease or equivalent.

Trouble Shooting Guide


Possible Cause

Tool will not run or stalls

*Air Pressure must be at 90psig (6.2bar/620kPa)
*Missing or Broken rotor blades
*Rotor is too long
*Burrs on gears

Loss of power

*Lack of lubrication
*Muffler elements clogged
*Air pressure must be at 90psig (6.2bar/620kPa)
*Inlet busing clogged
*Rotor blades installed backwards
*Bearings worn
*Rust and rotor blade debris in cylinder
*Badly worn blades

Tools stalls before clutch trips

*Clutch adjustment
*Air pressure must be at 90psig (6.2bar/620kPa)
*Rated tool performance vs torque requirement
*Damaged clutch component

Tool will not restart after clutch trips

*Pushrod not at correct length
*Burrs on gears
*Badly worn rotor
*Spring on upper clutch spindle broken or damaged


NOTE: Whenever a 2600 series tool is to be placed in a vise, use leather or copper covered vise jaws to protect the surface of the part or tool and help prevent distortion. This is especially true of motor housings and threaded portions of the housing. Distortion of the motor housing could result in irreparable damage. (Numbers in parentheses refer to numbered parts in parts drawing)

1. Grasp the tool and remove the clutch housing (34) by turning the housing clockwise (left hand thread). If the clutch housing will not unscrew by hand, then grasp the tool in a padded jaw vise and use a strap wrench to loosen the housing.

2. Remove the clutch from the motor housing assembly, taking special care not to bend the push rod (4).

3. Place an 11/16" open end wrench on the flats of the head assembly, turn clockwise to loosen, and continue turning until the head assembly separates from the motor housing (36). Carefully remove the head and push rod from the motor housing.

4. Remove the motor and drive train assemblies from the motor housing by using a pencil to push them through the housing. Insert the pencil, eraser first into the external threaded end of the housing. Note: place a shallow container under the motor and gear assembly prior to disassembling. The alignment pin will fall loose when the spindle gear and bearing are removed from the rotor.

5. Remove the motor assembly (items 15 through 25) from the gear assembly. Disassemble the motor by removing the cover plate (15), bearing ring (16), bearing (17), upper end plate (18), and alignment pin (19) from the cylinder (20). Slide the cylinder from the rotor/spindle gear and remove the rotor blades (22) from the slots in the rotor (21). Remove the spindle gear (25), bearing (17), bearing lower ring (24), and lower end plate (23) from the rotor. The alignment pin (14) will drop when the spindle gear and the rotor are separated.

6. Check bearings (17) for excessive side play and smooth rotations. Check that the press fit of the bearing and spindle (25) is still solid. Inspect the rotor, lower end plate (23), and upper end plate (18) for any scoring or excessive wear. The teeth of the spindle gear (25) should be checked for burrs or excessive wear.

7. If the upper or lower end plates are slightly scored they can be refurbished by placing a sheet of emery cloth on a flat surface, such as a piece of glass or plate and then lightly sliding them cross ways until a good finish has been achieved. Note: Always make sure that each item is flat against the emery cloth and this process should only be performed if the end plates are only slightly scored.

8. Remove the ring gears (26, 27) and idler gears (32) from the idler gear plate (28), and driver/pin assembly (29). Inspect all ring gears and idler gears for burrs, chips, and excessive wear. Check bearings (33,34) for wear and smooth rotation. After cleaning idler gears, place them on the pins of the idler gear plate and driver/pin assembly. Rotate each gear making sure it turns smoothly.

9. If the bearing (33) requires replacement, remove the retaining ring (35) from the driver/pin assembly (29). Press the driver/pin assembly (29) from the bearing (34). For the idler gear assembly, press the short spindle gear (30) from the bearing (33), making sure not to loose the alignment pin,

10. Disassemble the head assembly using a snap ring pliers to remove the retaining ring (5), then remove the muffler cap (6) and muffler (7). The muffler should be replaced whenever the tool is in for repair or maintenance. Visually inspect the push rod for straightness. If the push rod must be replaced, then remove the retaining ring (2) using a metal rod about the same diameter as the push rod, bent into a hook.

11. If it is found that the reverse does not function or the reverse valve (12) does not move freely, the tool should be sent back to Standard Pneumatic and Electric Tool Company for evaluation and repair.

12. Clean all parts thoroughly, using cleaning solvent, acetone, or an ultrasonic cleaner/specified soap.


1. If the bearings (33,34) require replacement, remove the retaining ring (35) from the driver/pin assembly and using a small arbor press to remove the bearing (34). When pressing the short spindle gear (30) from the idler gear plate assembly (28), care should be taken not to loose the groove pin (31). To reassemble the bearings use the parts diagram for the orientation of each part.

2. Insert the idler plate assembly (28), short spindle gear (30) and bearing (33) into the ring gear (26) making sure the bearing is fully seated into the recess of the ring gear. Place the idler gears (32) onto the pins located on the idler plate assembly (28) and then rotate the spindle gear to insure that the teeth of the idler gears properly mesh with the teeth of ring gear.

3. Assembly of the driver/pin (29), idler gears and ring gear (27) is done the same as the idler gear plate assembly except that the ring gear does not have a recess to contain the bearing.

4. Install each gear train together, making certain the teeth of the gears mesh with the teeth of the ring gears. Place them in a v-block or partially opened vise and then insert the small hex end of the clutch into the I.D. of the drive spindle (29). Rotate the gear trains to insure gears rotate freely. Note: The jaws of the vise should be open enough to just cradle the gear trains.

5. If the bearing (17) required replacement, care must be taken to make sure that when pressing the new bearing onto the spindle gear (29); the bearing does not contact the teeth of the gear. Install the bearing ring (16) onto the bearing and then slide the lower end plate onto the spindle gear making sure that the recess faces the bearing. Hold the spindle gear, bearing, bearing ring and lower end plate so the pin groove located on the shaft is visible. Place the alignment pin (14) in the groove and insert the spindle gear shaft in the I.D. of the rotor. Rotate the rotor so it will slide over the alignment pin.

6. Generously coat the 5 rotor blades with pneumatic tool lubricant and place one into each slot of the rotor with the 30-degree angle facing the center of the rotor.

7. Place the cylinder (20) over the rotor with the hole for the alignment pin facing up and away from the spindle gear (25). Insert the alignment pin (14) in the hole provided in the cylinder. Place the upper end plate (18), with the recess facing upwards, followed by the bearing (17), bearing ring (16) and cover plate (15) onto the shaft of the rotor. The alignment pin goes through small the hole, which is between the two large holes in the bearing ring, upper end plate (18) and cover plate (15). The bearing ring should be oriented with the cut away aligned with the notch in the cylinder.

8. Assemble the motor and gear trains together. Place a pencil, eraser end first, into the end of the motor housing that has external threads, then slide the entire assembly into the opposite end of the motor housing, inserting the gear train first. The pencil will aid in keeping the gear trains intact when sliding the assembly into the motor housing.

9. Using the pencil, slide the motor and gear train assembly back out of the motor housing until the alignment pin is exposed. Then place the head assembly, oriented so that the pin will be inserted in the small hole between the two double drilled holes, onto the top of the motor as shown in the parts diagram.

10.Turn the motor housing so that the head assembly faces down. Thread the housing onto the head assembly, turning it counter-clockwise until snug.

11.Turn the motor housing so that the head assembly faces down. Thread the housiInstall the clutch, clutch housing and then attach the tool to an airline. Secure the motor housing with a strap wrench or in a padded jaw vise. Using an 11/16” open-end wrench, tighten the head assembly and at the same time actuate the tool. Tighten the head assembly until the highest rpm is achieved. Verify the rpm by using a tachometer.

12.If required, repeat step 11 until the optimal free speed is achieved. Ideally the rpm should be as shown below:

Ideal RPM Values
for Model #


1300 RPM


800 RPM


300 RPM


1300 RPM


800 RPM


300 RPM


1300 RPM


800 RPM


300 RPM

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